Conquer the Remarkables: Winter Climbing Adventure

The season from ice climbing in New Zealand is confined to the shortest days of winter. Water ice climbing in New Zealand is mainly confined to cold, higher elevation, and south-facing aspects with a good supply of drainage. These venues see little sunshine, and later in the season, snow can accumulate, covering less steep climbs and more consideration needs to be given to the increased avalanche risk. 

Ice Climbing Venues

Wye Creek and the peaks and faces of the Remarkables near Queenstown offer the most accessible winter climbing playground. Wye Creek provides extensive and varied water ice climbing. The Remarkables provides the full range of experiences from classic winter gulleys and ice flows to technical mixed climbing high above the Whakatipu basin.

Great alpine ice can be found in the high mountains of the Aoraki/Mount Cook and Westland regions well into spring when longer daylight hours reduce the time pressure on longer routes. At this time, winter snows have consolidated to make firm cramponing conditions and more stable avalanche conditions. Classic areas and routes include the South Face of Hicks from Empress Hut and the South Face of Douglas and the Mallory-Barnicoat ridge from Pioneer Hut.

Our fees do not include insurance for personal circumstances (including but not limited to travel, injury, medical, and equipment). 

We strongly recommend you obtain: 

• Travel insurance to cover you in the event of a trip cancellation by either you or us, for trip changes, or for medical emergencies to cover you for your personal health needs; 
• Personal and third-party insurance is required to cover damage or loss of equipment and property. 

We do not accept liability, responsibility, or any expenses for insurance-related costs incurred by participants in preparation for or participation in our trips and courses.

Duration: 1/2/3 days
Contact us for private bookings during July and August 2026
Price:
Day trips from $1390 / $750 per person for 1:1 / 1:2
2 day trips from $2490 / $1350 per person for 1:1 / 1:2
3 day trips from $3690 / $1950 per person for 1:1 / 1:2
 

Avalanche

Whenever snow is above threshold above or at an ice climbing venue, an avalanche hazard may exist. Ice climbing areas are often found below slopes that provide drainage to the ice formation. If these slopes are between 30 and 45 degrees, it is avalanche terrain and exposes the ice climbing venue. Similarly, approaches may cross avalanche terrain. It is well known that even small avalanches are severe for climbers due to the equipment used and carried and their inability to move quickly out of the path compared to skiers. 

Climbers should be aware of the avalanche conditions from the public forecast and be cautious whenever there is a change from new snow, rain, or rising temperatures. Avalanche safety gear  (shovel, transceiver, and probes) and knowledge of how to use them are essential for most ice climbing venues.

Cooling

Ice expands when heated and contracts when cooled, which can introduce mechanical stress. If cooling is slow, the ice can adapt to the stresses and deform plastically. However, if cooling is quick, the ice becomes brittle and additional stresses, such as those created by an ice axe, can create cracks. During contraction, a free-standing column will shorten, creating strong vertical mechanical stresses in the structure.

Thaw

Thaw can be experienced at any point of the season in New Zealand. A spike in temperatures or strong winds can affect safe climbing conditions. Prolonged periods of mild temperatures above 0 °C, including at night, can cause running water behind the ice and can result in the separation of the ice from the underlying rock. Particularly early in the season when hanging daggers and freestanding ice forms that have not been connected to the ground can collapse with little warning. By late August, the sun is higher in the sky which can quickly lead to the deterioration of conditions. Under these conditions, avoid being under hanging or steep features that may come down on top of you.

Periods with stable temperatures of around 0 °C (little warming during the day, no drastic cooling at night) generally provide the most favourable climbing conditions.

Climbers should always wear helmets, as ice or ice tools can be accidentally dropped from above. Belayers need to stay clear of the “firing line,” especially on multi-pitch climbs where they are anchored and can’t move quickly. Never climb directly beneath another party.

Ice climbing involves sharp tools, so cover exposed skin and consider eye protection to prevent injuries from flying ice. Falls while wearing crampons and using ice tools can be hazardous, so climb within your limits, focusing on solid foot placements and secure tool placement, as feet are often the first to slip during a fall.

Boots

For technical ice and mixed climbing, fully rigid mountaineering boots (full shank) are required. Single boots made from leather or modern synthetic materials, some with integrated gaiters, are suitable for New Zealand’s winter and spring conditions. Double plastic or synthetic boots provide extra warmth and dry faster on multi-day snow trips, but can be too warm for local conditions. Regardless of boot type, a separate snow gaiter is recommended for deep snow approaches.

Crampons

General mountaineering crampons and axes can be used, but specialist ice climbing gear is preferred. Crampons must be sharp for ice; summer use may require re-sharpening, reducing lifespan.

Dual vertical front points: stable but can shatter hard ice.

Mono vertical points: excel on hard, brittle ice and mixed terrain, fitting holes from ice tool placements for precise climbing.

Ice Tools

Modern curved ice tools make placements on steep water ice easier, reducing effort on technical terrain. They are shorter than general mountaineering axes and less suitable for plunging into snow on approaches or descents.

Leashes

Wrist leashes: provide grip support and conserve energy, but can make placing ice screws harder. Clipper leashes allow quick detachment.

Umbilical leashes: recommended for leashless climbing, keeping tools attached while reducing drop risk. Many climbers now climb without wrist leashes for efficiency.

Gloves

Managing hand warmth is essential.

Thin softshell or freezer gloves: dexterous for leading on mixed terrain.

Leather-palmed or warmer gloves: better for belaying, abseiling, or longer periods of inactivity. Keep spare pairs dry inside jackets.

Other Clothing

Overnight temperatures at venues like Wye Creek can drop to -10°C, but NZ winters vary. Bring a warm belay jacket and lightweight, adjustable layers. Prefer synthetic or hydrophobic down that retains warmth when damp.

Other Useful Items

V-Thread tool: vital for anchor construction; can be purpose-made or improvised. Petzl Multihook® combines a tool and knife for convenience.

Ice screw racking: ice clippers are popular for neat organization of long screws; alternatives include flutes or tubes attached to the harness.