Huascaran: the Highest Tropical Mountain in the World

Difficulty

Challenging

Comfort

Basic

Huascarán is the highest tropical mountain in the world and the crown jewel of the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes. It is also the second highest peak on Earth when measured from the planet’s center, after Ecuador’s Chimborazo Volcano.

This majestic peak boasts two summits: Huascarán Norte (6,655m) and Huascarán Sur (6,768m)—the latter being the most climbed and iconic. The ascent via the normal route presents a demanding physical and mental challenge, as climbers navigate its vast glacier. For those seeking a true test, the “Escudo” route features a 900m vertical ice wall, requiring advanced skills.

The mountain’s glacial conditions change annually, making each climb unpredictable, with obstacles like seracs, deep crevasses, and avalanches. Huascarán is among the most demanding, particularly the treacherous chute from Camp I to Camp II, where serac falls are frequent.

Huascarán is the ultimate training ground for mountaineers preparing for Aconcagua or a Himalayan 7,000m peak.

Pablo B. is the provider of this trip

The provider speaks: English, Spanish

Hi, I'm Pablo. I was born in Huaraz at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range. I studied systems engineering and at the same time I practiced trekking on my own, after finishing my engineering career I decided to study for Official Tourist Guide and later I took a specialization course in mountaineering authorized by the Peruvian Government. During my beginnings in mountaineering I climbed important mountains such as: Huascaran, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Chopicalqui, Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju and the classic 5 thousand mountains. I traveled to Ecuador where I climbed all the volcanoes such as: Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Ilinizas, Cayambe, as well as Obispo Peak, the most challenging and technical mountain in Ecuador. In 2019 I climbed Aconcagua and now I lead expeditions annually. Mountaineering is my passion and work in this beautiful world.

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Tour highlights

Epic Ascent to Huascarán Summit

Conquer the highest tropical mountain in the world, reaching 6,768m and enjoying 360° panoramic views of Peru’s most iconic peaks.

Stunning Andean Landscapes

Trek through the breathtaking Huaylas Valley, enjoy views of majestic Huascarán’s glaciers, and capture unforgettable moments at High Camps.

Challenging and Rewarding Glacier Climbing

Experience the thrill of crossing glaciers, navigating the Canaleta, and mastering technical mountaineering with expert guidance and roping.

Route details

Your adventure begins in Huaraz, where we’ll pick you up from your hotel in private transportation. From there, we’ll travel north through the stunning Huaylas Valley to Mancos Village, before continuing to Musho Village, our gateway to the mountain.

At Musho, our team of donkey drivers and pack animals will be ready to assist with the transportation of expedition gear to Base Camp.

Lodging: Mountain tents
Meals: Box lunch, lunch, and dinner
Transfer by car: Approx. 2 hours
Hiking time: Approx. 4 hours
Elevation gain: +1,100m (from 3,100m to 4,200m)

Difficulty

Challenging

Does not require specific skills, but one must be in good health

Tour provider's comments

Physical Training

Participants must be in excellent physical condition to join this climb. We recommend previous and constant preparation as a crucial factor to take on this challenge, then, the physical stress caused by the days of climbing will be minimized.

We strongly advise all participants to have an adequate training plan in gyms, outdoor sports, climbing peaks, bearing weight and long day hikes.

If you would like our advice, we can provide you a training plan after evaluation of your experience in hiking and sporting activity.

Climbing Knowledge

You must have knowledge of glacier progression, you must have a knowledge of mountain rescue, safety and equipment management. These skills allow you to optimize your safety and generate a collaborative work with our guides during the climb.

Acclimatization

Participants should have experience in altitude the last week prior to the begin the climb Huascaran, which ensures adequate acclimatization and conditioning of the body to the altitude. It is recommended to stay above 5,000 masl before starting the climb.

We suggest an acclimatization program before your expedition, it can be mountains of the Cordillera Blanca with a minimum of 6 days of anticipation. We recommend Huayhuash Trek, climbing Pisco or Vallunaraju mountains before climbing Huascarán.

Accommodation

Comfort

Basic

Tent

5 nights

4 seasons tent with double occupancy.

Tickets to group meeting place

Group meeting place

Departamento de Áncash, Provincia de Huaraz, Huaraz

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Partnered with

Weather during the tour

Weather conditions along the route

You will get a weather forecast for this tour’s route based on

the forecasts for this season
the statistics from previous years’ trips

Tour conditions

Included

certified Mountain Guide IFMGA / IVBV / UIAGM (english, spanish);
certified chef;
private transportation: Huaraz - Musho village - Huaraz;
porters for the transfer of logistic equipment from base camp to high camp;
mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, and crampons);
donkey drivers and donkeys for the transfer of the logistic camping equipment (15 Kg per participant);
4 meals per day (breakfast, lunch, box lunch, tea time and dinner);
4 seasons tent with double occupancy;
tent kitchen, dining room and bathroom;
kitchen sets and fully-equipped dining room;
first aid kit and oxygen bottle;
permanent radio communication between the team;
satellite phone for emergencies;
boiled water to fill up your bottle every day;
warm water for your personal higiene;
tips to get to Huaraz;
advice before the Expedition;
last day: lunch and farewell toast with regional food and typical Peruvian drinks.

Extras

airline ticket to Lima and back to the country of origin;
bus transportation Lima / Huaraz / Lima;
entrance ticket to Huascaran National Park: S/. 150.00 nuevos soles;
personal porters;
personal tent (if you want a personal tent, the rent is S/. 30 soles per day);
extra costs for premature abandonment of the expedition;
International Medical Insurance;
accident and rescue insurance (you can ask us about the agreement we have with Global Rescue for a preferential price);
travel luggage and trip cancellation insurance;
transfer to Huaraz out of schedule, in case of premature abandonment of the expedition;
first breakfast at the beginning of the itinerary is not included;
sleeping bag -25° / -30º;
personal expenses;
hotel during your stay in Huaraz;
tips for guide / staff.

Group size

From 4 to 6 tourists

Duration

6 days

5 nights