Into the High Ice: Mount Aspiring South West Ridge

5 days 4 nights
New Zealand
Photo Douglas R.
Douglas R.
Tour Provider
View Douglas’s tours
Difficulty
Extreme
Comfort
Basic
Group size
2-4 tourists,
over 18 y.o.

Some mountains are climbed. Others are earned. The South West Ridge of Mount Aspiring is one of those rare lines that demands focus, patience, and respect — a clean sweep of ice and rock cutting through the west face toward one of New Zealand’s most iconic summits.

This journey begins deep in the Southern Alps, with a helicopter flight into Bevan Col and a steady approach across the Bonar Glacier. Over the following days, you move gradually higher, learning the rhythm of the terrain, refining technique, and preparing for the climb ahead. Training climbs on nearby peaks build confidence and sharpen skills, while time in the alpine environment allows your body to adjust naturally.

Summit day starts before dawn. Headlamps cut through the cold air as you climb toward the ridge, reaching technical ice as the first light spills across the range. The final push follows a narrow crest high above the valleys below, where every step feels earned. From the summit, the view stretches across the full sweep of the Southern Alps — sharp, silent, unforgettable.

The descent is long and demanding, with glacial travel, down-climbing and abseiling leading back toward the valley. Evenings are spent resting at alpine huts, sharing food, stories, and the quiet satisfaction that comes after a full mountain day.

If you’re ready to step beyond basic mountaineering and into real alpine terrain, this route offers a powerful and honest mountain experience!

5 Day: $5950 - 7 Day: $8450

from
$3,512
per tourist for 5 days
This tour is booked individually on request
Any dates between 1 Oct, 2026 and 30 Apr, 2027 are available. Сlick to book or contact tour provider.
Number of individuals
2-4 tourists, over 18 y.o.
Only in the Hiking Trekking Club
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Photo Douglas R.
Douglas R. is the provider of this trip
The provider speaks: English
For over 30 years we’ve been taking you with us into New Zealand’s backcountry. Wether you're looking for a senic day-hike, or an unfortgettable overnight trek to an alpine hut, our experienced guides are ready to join you on your next adventure. Our guides are carefully selected, internationally certified professionals who accompany you from the very first contact. Whether you’re climbing alpine peaks, backcountry skiing, or trekking through valleys and mountain passes, you’ll be guided by experts who truly live and breathe the outdoors.

Tour highlights

east aspiring
The South West Ridge
A classic alpine line with steep ice, exposure, and a true summit finish
east aspiring climb
A True Mountaineer’s Ascent
A demanding climb that rewards preparation, patience, and resolve
east aspiring
High Alpine Ice Climbing
Steep snow and WI3 ice lead the way to the summit ridge

Route details

Day 1
Arrival and Glacier Approach

This plan is a sample only and may change depending on weather or other conditions. Please use it as a guide.

You arrive at our Wanaka office around 8:00 am, where you meet your guide, check all equipment, and go through the weather forecast together. Any final items are prepared and loaded, and you can leave extra belongings safely at the office.

A short drive takes you to the helicopter base. From there, a scenic flight brings you into Bevan Col, where the journey on foot begins. Your guide introduces glacier travel techniques and the correct use of ice axe and crampons. From here, a one-hour walk across the Bonar Glacier leads to Colin Todd Hut, your base for the climb. Depending on conditions and hut availability, the night may be spent inside the hut or in a bivy or tent nearby.

Mount Aspiring South-West Ridge
Mount Aspiring South-West Ridge
Mount Aspiring South-West Ridge
Day 2
Acclimatisation and Skills Day
Day 3
Summit Day
Day 4
Descent to the Valley
Day 5
Walk Out and Return
Difficulty
Extreme
Only for experienced and physically fit tourists. Requires specific skills and equipment
Tour provider's comments

As a progression to something a little harder, the South West ridge of Aspiring provides full value challenge and endurance while striving for one of the most iconic summits in the country.
Our main aim is for mountaineers to enjoy this experience and be safe doing so. This is as much about the expectations you form as well as being realistic about your current abilities. If you’re in doubt, we recommend using the following guide to determine if this course is for you:

  • Capable of 1,000m + ascent and descent in a day
  • Capable of 12-15 hours of physical activity a day
  • Capable of 4+ consecutive days ascent and descent
  • Capable of carrying 8-12kg pack
  • Comfortable with heights and exposure
  • Mountaineering experienced required

Guided 1:1

Accommodation

Comfort
Basic
Tent
4 nights

We recommend staying in Wānaka the night before your trip as we will meet and leave from Wānaka the day of your trip.

Wānaka offers a vast range of options for your pre and post trip accommodation. It can be busy over the winter and summer season, so it is a good idea to book well in advance.

4 nights
Mountain Hut

Weather during the tour

Weather conditions along the route
You will get a weather forecast for this tour’s route based on
  • the forecasts for this season
  • the statistics from previous years’ trips

Conditions

Included
  • IFMGA or NZMGA certified mountain guide;
  • qualified guide (IFMGA or NZMGA certified climbing guide);
  • technical equipment;
  • meals and snacks for the duration of the trip;
  • hut accommodation;
  • transportation from Wānaka to and from the
  • climbing location;
  • terrain fees;
  • GST included (New Zealand 15% goods and services tax).
Extras
  • flights;
  • any other personal expenses;
  • all of our prices exclude helicopter flight fees. The helicopter flight into Bevan Col is $1500. However if we can connect with others and fill the helicopter, the cost will reduce to $1000 each way.

Please note, sleeping bag is not included.

It's important to know

Personal equipment you need for the tour

Throughout the summer season, a full range of conditions and temperatures can be expected in the New Zealand Mountains. Due to the remote nature of the the terrain, clients need to be suitably prepared. Your guide will do a comprehensive gear check at your pre-trip meeting. These are usually fly-in, fly-out trips based at backcountry huts. You will need to carry your personal gear and will be asked to assist in carrying some food and group equipment from the heli-landing site to the hut. Clients should have all their equipment packed into one bag as not all trips will have a heli landing directly to the hut.

BODY

  • underwear;
  • base layer (150–200g weight, merino or polyprop, no cotton; e.g., Icebreaker 200 Oasis LS Crewe);
  • top;
  • leggings;
  • mid layer top (fleece or windproof);
  • insulating jacket (down or synthetic fill);
  • waterproof jacket (e.g., Gore-Tex® or similar);
  • over-pants* (ideally Goretex with full side zips);
  • lightweight, quick-drying trousers or Softshell climbing trousers;
  • collared glacier/trekking shirt/sun hoody;

FEET

  • mountaineering boots*;
  • Nov–Jan: full shank, 3-season (e.g., La Sportiva® Nepal);
  • Jan–Apr: 3/4 shank, 2–3 season (e.g., La Sportiva® Karakorum or Trango);
  • snow gaiters (to knee)*;
  • 2 pairs of trekking socks (merino).

HEAD / FACE

  • sunhat or cap;
  • warm hat and neck gaiter (e.g., Buff®);
  • sunglasses – glacier rated, category 4.

HANDS

  • warm windproof gloves;
  • light gloves.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT (FOC)

  • climbing helmet*;
  • crampons with anti-balling plates*;
  • ice axe*;
  • ice hammer*;
  • climbing harness*;
  • belay device*;
  • sling (nylon or Dyneema®, 120 cm)*;
  • 3x Locking Carabiners - at least 1 HMS preferred*;
  • 4x Snaplock Carabiners*;
  • 2x 6mm Prussiks - 1x60cm, 1x 120cm loop length *;
  • ice screw 18cm*;
  • snow Stake*.

ACCESSORIES

  • backpack (50+ liters)*;
  • sleeping bag (2-season, 0°C) and liner*;
  • water bottles – total 2 liters capacity min;
  • head torch and spare batteries;
  • toiletries, blister kit, and personal medication;
  • small container of sunblock and lip screen.

OPTIONAL – PERSONAL PREFERENCE ITEMS

  • collapsible trekking poles*;
  • camera;
  • earplugs for sleeping;
  • lightweight approach/hut shoes (e.g., Crocs);
  • for any time spent in town – towel and change of clothes.

*available for loan as part of the trip cost.

Please bring all your equipment to the scheduled pre-trip meeting. If you have any equipment questions prior to your trip, please feel free to contact our team.

What is included in the price?
Pre-Trip Prep
Planning your trip
Please note
Risk Disclosure
Where do we meet?
Why should I get insurance for my trip?
Can I hire equipment?
What do we eat? I have a special diet, is this OK?
What if I don't fit with the group ability?
Do I have to pay for a trip if the weather is bad?
Can I leave my extra bags and valuables with you while we are on the trip?
How do I get to Wanaka?
Equipment
Payment
Do I need a rental car?
Cancellation of booking

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Dates and Prices

  • Any dates on request during the season
    1 Oct, 2026 – 30 Apr, 2027
    Request to book

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