Edge of Ice: The Malte Brun Ascent

6 days 5 nights
New Zealand
Photo Douglas R.
Douglas R.
Tour Provider
View Douglas’s tours
Difficulty
Extreme
Comfort
Basic
Group size
2-4 tourists,
over 18 y.o.

High above the Tasman Glacier, where rock, ice and sky meet without compromise, rises Malte Brun — a mountain that feels distant even by New Zealand standards. Its West Ridge draws a clean line through the Southern Alps, sharp, exposed and unforgettable. This journey is for climbers who are ready to step into true alpine terrain, where every move is earned and every view feels immense.

The adventure begins in Wanaka before a flight carries you deep into Mount Cook National Park. From the Tasman White Ice, the approach leads across the Bonney Glacier to a remote high camp beneath the mountain. Days are shaped by weather, rhythm and patience — waiting for the right moment, watching light move across ice, preparing for a long summit push. When conditions align, the ascent unfolds over steep snow, solid rock and the famous Cheval ridge, where exposure is constant and the Tasman Glacier drops away beneath your boots.

Logistics are handled with care so you can focus on the climb. Travel is supported by helicopter access, experienced guiding, and carefully chosen camps. After the ascent, time is allowed to rest before returning down the glacier and back to Wanaka. This is a climb for those who value commitment, precision and the quiet satisfaction of standing on one of the Southern Alps’ most striking summits.

*Actual price is on request

from
$3,512
per tourist for 6 days
This tour is booked individually on request
Any dates between 15 Jan, 2027 and 27 Feb, 2027 are available. Сlick to book or contact tour provider.
Number of individuals
2-4 tourists, over 18 y.o.
Only in the Hiking Trekking Club
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Photo Douglas R.
Douglas R. is the provider of this trip
The provider speaks: English
For over 30 years we’ve been taking you with us into New Zealand’s backcountry. Wether you're looking for a senic day-hike, or an unfortgettable overnight trek to an alpine hut, our experienced guides are ready to join you on your next adventure. Our guides are carefully selected, internationally certified professionals who accompany you from the very first contact. Whether you’re climbing alpine peaks, backcountry skiing, or trekking through valleys and mountain passes, you’ll be guided by experts who truly live and breathe the outdoors.

Tour highlights

climber
Sixth Highest in New Zealand
A true alpine giant with classic climbing lines in one of the country’s wildest ranges
mount malte brun climber
Above the Ice Kingdom
Rising high above the Tasman Glacier, Malte Brun offers bold lines and true alpine character
mount malte brun climber
High-Altitude Climbing
A demanding route with long summit day, steep terrain and classic alpine movement

Route details

Day 1
Arrival

This plan is a sample only and may change depending on weather or other conditions. Please use it as a guide.

You arrive at our Wanaka office at 8:00 am, where you meet your guide for a full gear check and weather briefing. Any final equipment is organised and loaded, and personal belongings can be left safely at the office.

From here, we drive approximately 2.5 hours to Mount Cook Airport. The small airstrip lies inside Mount Cook National Park, on the eastern side of Aoraki / Mount Cook.

After arriving, we board the helicopter for the flight to the Tasman White Ice. From the landing point, we begin the approach on foot, walking up the Bonney Glacier to reach camp at the base of the route. Depending on weather conditions, this approach may occasionally be delayed.

climber
Mount Aspiring South-West Ridge
mount malte brun climber 1 more photo
Day 2
Waiting for the Right Conditions
Day 3
Summit Attempt
Day 4
Backup Weather Day
Day 5
Rest and Descent Preparation
Day 6
Return to Wanaka
Difficulty
Extreme
Only for experienced and physically fit tourists. Requires specific skills and equipment
Tour provider's comments

Our main aim is for mountaineers to enjoy this experience and be safe doing so. This is as much about the expectations you form as well as being realistic about your current abilities. If you’re in doubt, we recommend using the following guide to determine if this course is for you:

  • Capable of 1,000m + ascent and descent in a day
  • Capable of 12-15 hours of physical activity a day
  • Capable of 4+ consecutive days ascent and descent
  • Capable of carrying 10kg pack
  • Comfortable walking on snow / ice with crampons or snowshoes
  • Comfortable on rough, unmaintained tracks
  • Comfortable with heights and exposure
  • Comfortable in a range of adverse weather conditions
  • Mountaineering experienced required

Guided 1:1

Accommodation

Comfort
Basic
Tent
4 nights

We recommend staying in Wānaka the night before your trip as we will meet and leave from Wānaka the day of your trip.

Wānaka offers a vast range of options for your pre and post trip accommodation. It can be busy over the winter and summer season, so it is a good idea to book well in advance.

4 nights
Mountain Hut

Weather during the tour

Weather conditions along the route
You will get a weather forecast for this tour’s route based on
  • the forecasts for this season
  • the statistics from previous years’ trips

Conditions

Included
  • IFMGA or NZMGA certified mountain guide;qualified guide (IFMGA or NZMGA certified climbing guide);
  • meals and snacks for the duration of the trip;
  • hut or tent accommodation (not all huts allow for bookings, and if they are full during high season we might be required to camp);
  • transportation from Wānaka to and from the climbing location;
  • terrain fees;
  • GST included (New Zealand 15% goods and services tax);
  • heli flight in and out of mountains.
Extras
  • flights;
  • any other personal expenses.

Please note, sleeping bag is not included.

It's important to know

Personal equipment you need for the tour

Throughout the summer season, a full range of conditions and temperatures can be expected in the New Zealand Mountains. Due to the remote nature of the the terrain, clients need to be suitably prepared. Your guide will do a comprehensive gear check at your pre-trip meeting. These are usually flyin, fly-out trips based at alpine huts. You will need to carry your personal gear and will be asked to assist in carrying some food and group equipment from the heli-landing site to the hut. All equipment needs to fit into one pack per client.

BODY

  • underwear;
  • base layer (150–200g weight, merino or polypop, no cotton. example: icebreaker 200 oasis ls crewe);
  • top;
  • leggings;
  • mid layer top (fleece or windproof);
  • insulating jacket (fleece or synthetic fill);
  • waterproof jacket (eg gore tex® or similar);
  • overpants (waterproof as above) *;
  • lightweight, quick drying trousers;
  • collared glacier/trekking shirt;

FEET

  • mountaineering boots *;
  • nov to jan – full shank, 3 season (eg la sportiva® nepal);
  • jan to april – 3/4 shank, 2–3 season (eg la sportiva® karakorum or trango);
  • snow gaiters (to knee) *;
  • 2 pairs of trekking socks (merino);

HEAD / FACE

  • sunhat – cap;
  • warm hat & neck gaiter (eg buff);
  • sunglasses – glacier rated category 4;

HANDS

  • warm windproof gloves;
  • light gloves;

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT (FOC)

  • climbing helmet *;
  • crampons – with anti-balling plates *;
  • ice axe *;
  • ice hammer *;
  • climbing harness *;
  • belay device *;
  • sling – nylon or dyneema®, 120 cm *;
  • 2 x carabiners – hms preferred *;
  • 2 x 6 mm prussiks – 1 x 60 cm, 1 x 120 cm loop length *;
  • ice screw 16 cm *;
  • snow stake *;

ACCESSORIES

  • backpack (50+ liters) *;
  • sleeping bag (2 season, 0°c) *;
  • sleeping bag liner;
  • sleeping mat *;
  • water bottles – 2 liters capacity;
  • head torch – and spare batteries;
  • toiletries – blister kit & personal medication;
  • small container of sunblock & lip screen;

OPTIONAL – PERSONAL PREFERENCE ITEMS

  • collapsible trekking poles *;
  • camera;
  • swiss army knife or leatherman;
  • earplugs for sleeping;
  • lightweight approach / hut shoes (eg crocs);
  • for any time staying in town – towel and change of clothes;

*available for loan as part of the trip cost.

Please bring all your equipment to the scheduled pre-trip meeting. If you have any equipment questions prior to your trip, please feel free to contact our team.

What is included in the price?
Pre-Trip Prep
Planning your trip
Please note
Risk Disclosure
Where do we meet?
Why should I get insurance for my trip?
Can I hire equipment?
What do we eat? I have a special diet, is this OK?
What if I don't fit with the group ability?
Do I have to pay for a trip if the weather is bad?
Can I leave my extra bags and valuables with you while we are on the trip?
How do I get to Wanaka?
Equipment
Payment
Do I need a rental car?
Cancellation of booking

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Dates and Prices

  • Any dates on request during the season
    15 Jan – 27 Feb, 2027
    Request to book

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