Ameghino Valley Route

We leave Mendoza and drive west into the Andes, following the scenic Rio Mendoza to the Aconcagua Park Entrance (8,000’). As we journey deeper into the mountains, the acclimatization process begins. After completing park entry formalities, we prepare for the trek ahead.

Our expedition officially begins as we hike through the stunning Vacas and Ameghino Valleys. Mules will carry our gear, allowing us to enjoy the rugged beauty and vibrant desert landscapes. This route, first established by a Polish expedition in 1934, remains far less traveled than the Normal Route, offering a serene and immersive experience.

After three days of trekking and approximately 40 kilometers of hiking, we reach Base Camp at Plaza Argentina (13,800’). This journey provides an excellent opportunity for gradual acclimatization, preparing us for the ascent ahead. At camp, we settle in and prepare for the next phase of our climb.

Today is dedicated to rest and acclimatization at Base Camp (13,800’) to ensure everyone has the best chance of reaching the summit. Adapting to the low-oxygen environment is crucial, so we follow a traditional expedition-style approach: carrying loads to a higher camp before returning to sleep at a lower altitude. This proven method enhances acclimatization and prepares us for the ascent ahead. Rest, hydration, and nutrition are key as we adjust to the altitude and prepare for the next stage of the climb.

Today, we make our first carry to Camp I (16,300’), following a gentle yet steady ascent along the rocky moraine-covered Relinchos Glacier, nestled between Cerro Aconcagua and Cerro Ameghino. Along the way, we’ll witness the fascinating Nieve Penitentes, unique sun-sculpted ice formations found at high altitudes. After caching our gear at Camp I, we return to Base Camp (13,800’) for the night, following the acclimatization strategy of climbing high and sleeping low.

Today, we carry loads to Camp II (17,500’), gaining elevation while continuing our acclimatization. The route ascends scree slopes to a broad ridge crest, offering breathtaking views of the Polish Glacier. At Ameghino Saddle, we reconnect with our Upper Guanacos Valley Route, following a gentle traverse to reach Camp II. After caching our gear, we return to Camp I (16,300’) for the night, following our strategy of climbing high and sleeping low.

Today, we leave Camp I (16,300’) and move up to Camp II (17,500’), following the route past Ameghino Saddle and along a gentle traverse. From this point onward, our itinerary remains flexible, adapting to weather, group conditions, and acclimatization needs.

Depending on these factors, the guide may adjust the schedule, incorporating extra rest days at Base Camp, Camp I, or Camp II, or even skipping Camp II and moving directly to Camp III. This adaptive approach maximizes our chances of success, ensuring optimal acclimatization and strategic use of rest/weather days at higher elevations.

Today, we make a short and easy traverse from Camp II (17,500’) to Camp III (17,800’), with minimal elevation gain. Since we’ve likely already carried loads the day before, an additional load carry is usually unnecessary. This day allows for a gradual transition to higher altitude, conserving energy as we continue along the Upper Guanacos Route in preparation for the summit push.

Today, we carry loads to High Camp, Piedras Blancas (19,200’), also known as White Rocks. The route continues along the Upper Guanacos Route, gradually ascending toward the final staging point before our summit push.

Today, we leave Camp III (17,800’) and move up to High Camp, Piedras Blancas (19,200’), our final camp before the summit. This is a crucial day as we position ourselves for the summit push. The climb is steady but manageable, and upon arrival, we focus on rest, hydration, and final preparations for the next day’s ascent to the top of Aconcagua (22,841’).

Today is the day we aim for the summit of Aconcagua (22,841'), weather permitting. We leave High Camp (19,200') early, starting our ascent in the early hours to take advantage of the best weather conditions. This is a long and demanding day, but with determination, we’ll make our push for the summit. If needed, we have extra days built into our schedule to account for any weather delays or additional rest at lower camps for better acclimatization.

If weather conditions or team pace on Day 13 require more time, we use Day 14 as a contingency for the summit attempt.

In case of further delays due to weather conditions or the need for extra acclimatization, Day 15 is another contingency day to complete the summit push. The goal remains to summit with the best possible conditions, so we’ll adjust based on the team’s readiness and the weather forecast.

If needed, Day 16 serves as the final contingency day for our summit attempt.

After our summit, we begin the descent via the Normal Route on the west side of Aconcagua, which provides a more direct route compared to our approach from the east. The descent takes us all the way to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (13,800'), where we’ll settle in for a well-deserved rest. This marks a significant milestone in our journey, as we leave the high altitudes behind and begin to enjoy the comforts of a lower elevation.

Today, we begin our hike out of the Horcones Valley, taking in stunning views of Aconcagua’s South Face. Mules will carry our gear, allowing us to enjoy the trek with less weight. In the afternoon, we arrive at Penitentes, where we can enjoy a quick shower and freshen up before heading back to Mendoza. Upon arrival at the Mendoza Park Hyatt, you’ll be welcomed with the comfort of the hotel after our epic adventure.

If the extra weather and acclimatization days weren’t needed during the expedition, you and your team may arrive in Mendoza a day or two earlier. We’ll wrap up the journey with a celebratory evening banquet with the team. If the summit certificates are not presented at the banquet, they will be given during breakfast or lunch the following day.

Leisure day in Mendoza, possibly fly home this afternoon or continue traveling in South America.